The Lock 12 Historic Area of the old Susquehanna and Tidewater Canal in York County, PA is full ruins waiting to be explored.
The Lock 12 Historic Area is located just south of the impressive Holtwood Dam on the York County side of the Susquehanna River. In part 1 of this 3-part adventure, we will explore the relatively well-preserved remains of Lock 12 and investigate the historic ruins in the vicinity. You can park at one of several ample parking lots in the recreation area at 39.81249, -76.32896. Follow the walkway toward the playground. Just down the hill within view of the parking lot you will encounter a restored double like kiln at approximately 39.81402, -76.32897.
These kilns were used to convert locally abundant limestone to lime. Limestone was heated with coal in the kilns to approximately 2000oF, decomposing the Calcium carbonate to Calcium oxide and Carbon dioxide.
From the interpretative sign at the kiln: “To produce lime, iron bars were laid across the bottom of the pot and then alternate layers of six inches of small coal and sixteen to eighteen inches of limestone rocks were laid to the top of the kiln. The kiln was then covered and burned for about two weeks. After it had cooled for one week, the iron bars were removed, the burned lime fell and was shoveled out from the bottom. Much of the lime produced here was shipped via the canal to other areas.”
The Calcium oxide, or lime, was used for many purposes, including fertilizer, plaster, and whitewash.
After exploring the lime kiln, follow the Mason-Dixon trail to the sound of water and cross the bridge over Anderson Run. After a minute’s walk the woods opens up to a large clearing: the historic Lock 12.
Lock 12 was one of 29 locks on the Susquehanna and Tidewater Canal which ran along the western bank of the Susquehanna River for 45 miles from Wrightsville to Havre De Grace at the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay.
The Susquehanna and Tidewater Canal opened in 1840 and carried lumber, coal, iron and grain to ports such as Baltimore, Philadelphia, and New York. However, debt, flood damage, disruptions from the Civil War, and later competition from railroads hastened the decline of the canal. The Canal was sold to the Philadelphia and Reading Railway Company in 1872 which used the canal to transport coal to Baltimore. The canal was finally abandoned in 1895.
Lock 12 was 170 feet long and 17 feet wide. It had a lift capacity of 8.8 feet. With the other 28 locks on the canal, it overcame an elevation difference of 233 feet between Havre De Grace and Wrightsville.
From Lock 12, continue northwest (upstream) on the Mason-Dixon Trail parallelling the Susquehanna River. After about half a mile the trail turns perpendicularly from the river to follow Mill Creek. There is a surprise waiting in the woods just before the gravel road: ruins of a long stone wall.
We investigated the interior trying to discern what this structure might have been. It consisted of a long narrow room with windows on the river side. The short sides of the building were parallel with Mill Creek.
A smaller room was created in the southern corner of the building by a stone partition.
The layout of the structure indicated that it would not have been a residence. Given its location adjacent to “Mill Creek” and the industrial history of the area we surmise it would have been some sort of mill.
From the “mill” structure, you can take the gravel road back to the Lock 12 area. Along the way, you will pass a stone retaining wall and the site of (presumably) a home against the hill.
We investigated the terrace, but didn’t find much in the weeds. Winter would be more conducive to exploring this spot.
As you approach the Lock 12 parking area from the gravel road you will first hear then see an attention-catching waterfall. However there doesn’t appear to be a good way to get there from the road on account of the steep ravine and overgrown brush (including our old nemesis poison ivy). We searched for a path from the first parking lot, the one nearest the falls, to no avail. Because this appeared to be a relatively significant waterfall for the lower Susquehanna region, we thought there had to be a way to get to it. We returned to the double lime kiln at 39.81402, -76.32897 and noticed a mowed area and split rail fence that curved out of view around a hillock. We followed the lead and discovered a sign marking the location of an old sawmill.
In the ravine below the sign you can explore the ruins of the sawmill’s foundation.
From the sawmill sign, make your way to 39.81384, -76.32991. Head down the bank into the ravine. There is no discernable trail, so navigate around the brush upstream, staying close to the rock cliffs on your left. If you persevere to 39.81349, -76.33086, the waterfall shown below will reward your efforts. It’s a decent waterfall for the area and judging from the path (or lack thereof), few find it.
Of course, be on the lookout for the flora and fauna. We enjoyed the spring flowers, including this jack-in-the-pulpit.
Overall, the loop we took from the Lock 12 parking lot up the Mason-Dixon Trail and back the gravel River Rd. was approximately 1.5 miles.
Abundant parking in multiple lots is available at 39.81249, -76.32896.
COMING SOON: Join us on parts two and three of our adventure along this historic and beautiful region of the lower Susquehanna:
Be sure to check out our other adventures.
