Once the center of a bustling industry, Rock Run is a historic hot spot featuring an excellently preserved 19th century riverside estate you can explore.
Rock Run is a historic area in Susquehanna State Park in Harford County, Maryland. It is an opportunity to step back in time and explore the remains of a well-preserved early industrial community. On the banks of the scenic lower Susquehanna and with a multitude of hiking trails, Rock Run combines history and outdoor adventure. We began our exploration at the parking next to a large stone gristmill at 39.607813, -76.142148.
Rock Run is strategically located only 4.5 miles from where the Susquehanna River flows into the Chesapeake Bay at Havre De Grace. A colonial era gristmill was first built at Rock Run landing in 1760. By approximately 1800 the prosperous businessman John Stump bult the present gristmill at Rock Run Landing, an area called “The Land of Promise.” The four-story stone structure was a significant edifice and cutting-edge technology at the time. It employed mechanical automation, so that only a few workers were required for its operation. It was a merchant mill, providing grain for both then local and international market.
A community grew up around the flourishing gristmill and Rock Run became an important commercial center. In 1817, the first bridge in Maryland spanning the Susquehanna River was built at Rock Run in 1817. The completion of the Susquehanna and Tidewater Canal between Wrightsville, PA and Havre De Grace, MD in 1840 further elevated Rock Run’s significance and prosperity. The mill’s second floor was used as a post office from 1827 to 1856. The gristmill was renovated in 1900. The original millstones for wheat grinding were replaced with steel rollers, and the wooden waterwheel was replaced by a steel Fitz wheel. Wheat grinding ceased in the 1930’s but the mill continued to grind corn until 1954.
From the grist mill we crossed the street to investigate a narrow two-story stone structure in the woods. This springhouse was built between 1801 and 1804. It provided water for the Rock Run Mansion. The spring house also supplied water for public use to a stone trough directly below on Stafford Road. The 50oF water served as cold storage for perishable foods on the bottom floor. The second floor was used as a moist storage environment. In the photo below, you will notice that there is no direct access to the second-floor door. Wooden planks were laid from the hillside to gain admittance to the upper level.
We headed up the path from the spring house to the carriage barn. This large two-story stone building housed animals on the first floor and feed on the second. Like many two-story barns, it was built into the hillside to provide direct access to the second floor. Later, the mansion’s carriages were stored on the bottom floor and farm equipment on the top. Today it houses bathroom facilities for park visitors.
The Rock Run Mansion, properly known as the Carter-Archer Mansion, stands on a terrace overlooking the historic area and scenic Susquehanna River. John Stump sold the parcel for the mansion to his business partner John Carter in 1801. Carter built the 13-room L-shaped mansion in 1804. Although modest on the outside, the interior was furnished with the finest luxuries of the day.
However, Carter barely had the opportunity to enjoy his magnificent home, dying within months of its completion. Upon Carter’s death, Stump assumed control of the mansion. At Stump’s death a few years later in 1816 the property passed to his daughter Ann and her husband D. John Archer Jr. The mansion remained in the Archer family until 1904 when it was purchased by John Macklem. Wilford Wilkinson purchased the mansion and mill in 1929. The of Maryland Department of Forests and Parks purchased Rock Run in 1960.
The mansion and gristmill are open for touring through the summer. However, during our mid-winter visit the mansion’s slate roof was being repaired, so we enjoyed it from a respectful and safe distance. You can read more about the mansion and see interior photos in this article written by one of the Carter family descendants.
When you visit the mansion you will notice a large pond-like depression curving through the property to the forebay (iron pipe) that crosses above Stafford Road to feed the grist mill waterwheel. This depression, or holding pond, is supplied by a millrace, a manmade stream. We followed the millrace from the mansion driveway on a blazed trail running west through the woods to the millpond dam. Waterflow from the millpond to the millrace is controlled by the dam gate. The dam and gate were recently restored.
From the millpond, we passed back by the mansion and traversed the lawn down to the landing. The two-story stone Miller’s House is on a large terrace adjacent to Rock Run. It served as a home for the mill operator and doubled as an inn for travelers.
Rock Run was strategically located at a transportation hub along the Susquehanna. In addition to the river itself, Rock Run boasts the first bridge in Maryland to span the Susquehanna, completed in 1818. The original truss bridge consisted of four covered spans making use of three islands to cross the river. The overall length of the bridge including the roadways on the islands was about a mile. The width of the spans was 27 feet.
The bridge suffered a fire in 1823 and was not reopened until 1828. In 1854 a span was destroyed by vibrations caused by a herd of cattle crossing the bridge. The historic bridge was finally destroyed by ice floes during a storm in 1856. You can still see the ruins of the stone piers in the river today.
The tollhouse, later called the “Jersey” Tollhouse is located at the intersection of the bridge and Susquehanna and Tidewater Canal. It served as a toll collection station and residence for the toll keeper. In addition to collecting fees, the tollkeeper was responsible for regulating traffic, performing safety inspections, and keeping watch for dangers such as fire, floods, ice, and collisions with watercraft.
The Rock Run Historic Area is open year-round for self-guided tours of the grounds. During our visit we made use of the informative Maryland Department of Natural Resources Self-Guided Walking Tour. The advantage of visiting off-season that you can avoid the crowds that this rightfully popular historic and outdoor recreation destination attracts. However, the advantage of visiting during the summer is that the gristmill (10:00 am to 4:00pm) and mansion (1:00 to 4:00pm) are typically open on weekends and holidays from Memorial Day to Labor Day. Check the Susquehanna State Park website and the Campground Brochure for contact information to get up-to-date hours.
Rock Run is an excellent excursion for families, history buffs, and outdoor adventurers. We’re looking forward to sharing more explorations of Susquehanna State Park, including a return trip during the summer to visit the interior of the gristmill and mansion.
While you are in the neighborhood, you can explore these nearby adventures:
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